The mantoo dumplings, stuffed with spiced lamb, are a revelation, as is the khoresht-e-gheimeh, lamb stew with dried limes and waxy french fries on top. There is no dish that cannot be slightly ...

or gheimeh (a tomato-rich staple braised with meat, split peas and caramelised onions). Some stews are also available in tahdig bowls: supersized versions of the sandwiches, loaded with extras ...